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Yes I think that's very true. Problem is that once purchased it takes a bit of courage to pop into the local bike shop and ask them to sort out the Halfords mess!!!!

Beautiful morning here, really looking forward to today's club run. Moved myself up to the A group last week. First ride and we head off to Bowland Knotts - google it - I had no idea what this meant. Came close to death on the ascent from the Lancashire side but a fabulous descent into Settle on the Yorkshire side.

Ricky I'd no idea Hergest Ridge existed till you posted it!! Do you MTB up there?

Which club Paul - wondering if I may have seen you? Three of us were out yesterday - started in Barley then up Waddington Fell, over to Dunsop Bridge, Longridge, Clitheroe and back over the Nick o' Pendle to the Barley picnic site. Lovely route

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Which club Paul - wondering if I may have seen you? Three of us were out yesterday - started in Barley then up Waddington Fell, over to Dunsop Bridge, Longridge, Clitheroe and back over the Nick o' Pendle to the Barley picnic site. Lovely route

I'm in Ribble Valley CRC, mainly white tops with red and blue trim. We had four groups out yesterday. The A group went off on a 100 miler round Ribblehead etc. I bottled out of that and went with the B group - Preston, Chaigley, Waddy, Bolton by Bowland, Tosside for lunch, Dunsop Bridge, Chipping, Longridge, Preston. If you saw us we were a group of between 6 and 9 (some of the ladies took shortcuts at various points) and were all wearing club shirts except one guy in blue. I was on a black and green Dolan.

Going to Denthead next Sunday, one of my favourite rides. Should be fun!

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I'm in Ribble Valley CRC, mainly white tops with red and blue trim. We had four groups out yesterday. The A group went off on a 100 miler round Ribblehead etc. I bottled out of that and went with the B group - Preston, Chaigley, Waddy, Bolton by Bowland, Tosside for lunch, Dunsop Bridge, Chipping, Longridge, Preston. If you saw us we were a group of between 6 and 9 (some of the ladies took shortcuts at various points) and were all wearing club shirts except one guy in blue. I was on a black and green Dolan.

Going to Denthead next Sunday, one of my favourite rides. Should be fun!

Definitely saw some Ribble Valley guys but can't remember where it was - we were 3 from North Cheshire Clarion in Blue with yellow and Black chequered arms

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Repeat Punctures prob means the nail or thorn is still there.(or a spoke is protruding.).Run your thumb around the inside of the tyre to check for anything sharp.Also Check the rubberband that covers your spokes on the inside is doing its job..Swalbe Marathon Plus are one of the best Puncture resistant tyres you can get..Also you can get slime filled self sealing inners tubes from places like halfords.that will help..

As stated dont ride on soft tyre and check if you have ridden for a while.It wont help either if your tyre is simply just too worn and thin

Edited by JC4LAB
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  • 3 weeks later...

Next Sunday, July 31st, the Ironman triathlon is based at Anderton with the cycling element following local roads in the area. Last year the route was approx 38 miles and the competitors did two full and one part circuit to make the distance.

As riders approach a junction the police stop the traffic to allow the riders through without stopping. It's a really good feeling to be able to sweep along without having to worry about traffic at junctions - not that I would dream of suggesting anyone should try to follow the same route as the triathletes!!!

Nearest point to Blackburn for the route us where the A675 Belmont road meets the A674 at Hoghton Arms roundabout. Riders will be coming from Abbey Village on A675 towards Wheelton / Chorley on A674.

It's fun to watch as some of the competitors are very good.......even more fun to join in for a circuit or two.

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Having bottled the C2C last year (due to 'domestic issues' - code name for breaking up!) Im toying with the idea again, possibly early next sping. Got the tax dodge cycle scheme at work and am looking for something a little better than my Ridgeback MX2. Budget isnt massive, even with the tax saving! Any recommendations of either models, or what not to go for and what not. Will be used for my daily commute of 6.5 miles each way as well as the odd long ride other times. Most cycling is road or cycle paths.

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Having bottled the C2C last year (due to 'domestic issues' - code name for breaking up!) Im toying with the idea again, possibly early next sping. Got the tax dodge cycle scheme at work and am looking for something a little better than my Ridgeback MX2. Budget isnt massive, even with the tax saving! Any recommendations of either models, or what not to go for and what not. Will be used for my daily commute of 6.5 miles each way as well as the odd long ride other times. Most cycling is road or cycle paths.

What you have is a mountain bike, I never understand why people ride MTBs on the road, especially with those tyres. For what you describe I would look to buy a hybrid or city bike with road tyres. I am a big fan of Marin cycles think they build some of the best hybrids on the market, Marin tend to call these "city" bikes. I have had two San Rafael's http://www.marin.co.....php?ModNo=11SR both were excellent and sadly both were stolen. I replaced the tyres with something a lot smoother immediately as the difference in ease and speed is significant. Keep a decent set of road tyres properly inflated (buy a track pump) and punctures will be a thing of the past.

I rode the C2C on a San Raf twice, took two days each time, only had to walk at one point - there is a short section, 500 metre, which is the steepest paved incline in the UK and I'm not a sadist. I don't know many cycle brands / models but I'm certain the Marin San Raf will do what you need. I'd buy another tomorrow if i was doing that type of riding.

You should be able to pick up a San Raf for £450-£500 perhaps less. Did you realise bike prices drop significantly each autumn. The 2012 models come available in the autumn and there are often good deals to be had on the current year models if you shop around.

Only other point is suspension, though the San Raf has this I'm not a big fan. It certainly works well on Marin cycles but will absorb some of the energy / effort you are looking to put into riding. Suspension on low cost cycles, IMV, is a waste of money.

PS - if you have the original tyres on your Ridgeback changing them will make a huge difference.

Edited by Paul
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Just one other thought. Don't underestimate how important bike "fit" is. I like Marins because they tend to fit my build very well, it may be another brand will fit you better. Provided you buy a good brand the fit and comfort is more important than the manufacturer. Correct bike set up and "fit" is often ignored and is very important.

Go to http://www.cyclechat.net/ for loads of discussion and info on all matters cycling

Edited by Paul
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There was, surpringly, logic in my choice of bike and tyre - although it was probably flawed. At the time I was looking to loose some serious weight, but didnt have the time to exercise enough so commuting on a bike with mountain tyres used more energy than road tyres. It also allowed me to investigate moutain biking! I dont think I'll be pursuing that. (I managed to knock 7 stone off in 6 months though!)

Thanks for the recommendation, Im going to have a nosy round a few places, but it would help if I had a least a vague idea of what I was looking for. Will visit that site.

Cheers

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Will be used for my daily commute of 6.5 miles each way as well as the odd long ride other times. Most cycling is road or cycle paths.

I've been more than happy with a Trek Navigator equipped here

OK, it's not exactly a sexy beast and if you have issues with "looking stylish" then it's probably not the bike for you.

You get the full mudguards and luggage rack in the deal. (You'll pay a few quid more for them as extras) The former because I don't want to arrive at the end of my commute looking like I have severe digestion problems. The latter is so much better than a pack over the back. It also has a stand which I thought was a bit wussy, but after a couple of weeks I really appreciated its simplicity and usefullness.

There you go, just my recommendation for what it's worth.

Edited by colin
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I have a Dawes Galaxy and also a quality folding bike .Thumbs up for the Marin Hybrids from me too..Thin wheels for speed and better distances & good Grannygears for any hill.but you ride anything if your hearts in it..Theres lots of "Fixed wheel nuts"who have bikes with no gears at all nowadays

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There are a few websites to look at

http://www.foldsoc.co.uk/

http://www.atob.org.uk/

Ive a Brompton And I also have a Dahon .Other classy models to look at are Airminal Birdy and Even Moulton.Look on Ebay for 2nd hand but expect to be outbid.Downside is they aint cheap and you need a specialist shop for Parts.I use Bicycle Doctor in Rushomle Manchester.They know their stuff.,

http://www.bicycledoctor.co.uk/folders.html

The Dahon range is Popular espec the Speedpros.(But not at Bicyle Doctor who dont like em)Dahon also do larger fold in half 26"wheel bikes..

Theres A lot of cheap import stuff on Ebay..Its prob Ok if you have limited Spends but Nothing folds smaller than the Brompton

Edited by JC4LAB
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Interesting links, thank you. I'm looking to do more commuting by train and cycle but need a folder as a full size road bike simply doesn't work on a busy commuter train. One concern I have is speed. If I don't take the car I have to travel between two sites by bike, about 12 miles. In the car this takes 20-25 minutes, I can ride it in 40 on a road bike so not a problem.

This sounds daft but I've assumed small wheels means low speeds. I need / want to ride at around 15-16mph can I get this from a folder and should I look at a large wheel folder? Cost is not really an issue and I'll probably look to use the Cycle to Work Scheme as well.

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Dont think theres the perfect bike for all occasions.so best to have one or two different style of bikes for different things.if youve room to store em...My folder stays permanently in the carboot and used only when appropriate(park free then ride into Town) or as a change.,not for everyday everywhere riding.For Bromptons the speed is there on flat smooth roads with hard tryes but its the hills where they slow.Heavy use of a 16" wheels means fast wear and tear of tyres.chain etcs ,Worn tyres too slow you .Its an expensive high maintainance pet that costs.If you buy a Brompton you actually buy the features you need as extras...Gear ratios,titanium parts etc.The cost builds up though from £700 for just the basic model

Dahon speed pro is so named cos its fast.Most non Brompton Folders,Birdys Dahons,etc are 20" wheels so presumed faster but theres nothing smaller than it

Local Trains take 2-6 bikes full size bikes depending on room(best get on at the stop before busy bits)but passangers have priority.The 26"wheel Dahon Range(Expresso,Cadenza,Jack) fold in half,or can be made wafer thin by turning,removing the handle bars.They are fairly easy to squeeze on to a packed train.

Warning:If you get a Brompton expect lots of Admiration and pish..takin in equal measure

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Good link for you biking fellas.

http://www.cycle-clothes.co.uk/mens-8-panel-cycling-shorts-with-professional-moulded-pad--black-with-piping-s

They've had a fire next door so loads of clothes being sold off cheap, fill yer boots!!

I've picked up quite a bit of stuff, free delivery as well.

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Good link for you biking fellas.

http://www.cycle-clothes.co.uk/mens-8-panel-cycling-shorts-with-professional-moulded-pad--black-with-piping-s

They've had a fire next door so loads of clothes being sold off cheap, fill yer boots!!

I've picked up quite a bit of stuff, free delivery as well.

Nice one - just been on. If a cyclist rides past you smelling faintly of smoke, that'll be me.... :lol:

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This sounds daft but I've assumed small wheels means low speeds.

I think the science means just simply more revolutions of the wheels per distance travelled. Perhaps a tad more friction in the axle, and a propensity to buckle a wheel in a slightly smaller sized pot-hole

BTW, I took your advice on ditching WD40 on the chain. Thanks, proper oil does make a difference. I wiped of the excess with a rag dipped in white spirit so that it doesn't attract crud. It seems to be working well.

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I think the science means just simply more revolutions of the wheels per distance travelled. Perhaps a tad more friction in the axle, and a propensity to buckle a wheel in a slightly smaller sized pot-hole

Yep I'm beginning to think this way from what I've read

BTW, I took your advice on ditching WD40 on the chain. Thanks, proper oil does make a difference. I wiped of the excess with a rag dipped in white spirit so that it doesn't attract crud. It seems to be working well.

Yes that's how I would do it. Wipe of as much as possible in winter as you really only need a the oil inside the link pins and film on top to prevent rusting / repel water.

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The speed & comfort of a folder is on par, I would say with a fat wheel mountain bike on flat roads..Most Cycling clubs dont allow either on any their club runs because they arent fast enough and slownessness a liability to the group.If speed and distance are important to you then a folder wont do .To me it aint..Expect to lose about a third of your usual mileage.A fat tyre Mountain Bike will be the same but that option gives you a conquer everything in your path option at the expense of speed and distance.

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  • 1 month later...

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/mobile/magazine-15058782?psdata=11_3_Y8_4CSZ9_10_YCD11__CK12_14_15_

After cavendish wins at the world champs, the BBC have done on article on how they believe interest and participation will increase.

Excellent for the sport. Out of interest is anyone involved in any clubs or races?

Also what speed do you train/race at.

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this is not really a reply to the previous comments. but it's a comment.

I've got a weekly habit of turning the bike over and flicking out all the crud that has accumulated on the tyres. The weekend just gone I decided that my tyres were just getting to old and knackered. I bought a pair of Schwalbe marathon tyres at £50.

They are suppossed to be pretty much puncture-proof. I'd consider it money well spent if it's correct.

(1)Has anyone got an opinion on Schwalge's claim that their tyres are 5/6 rated puncture proof?

I've also got a puncture prevention strip between the inner of the tyre & the inner tube.

(2) I also got a thinner diameter tyre (from 1.75 to 1.5) and this seems to be working for my daily commute, which is on Mancunian Roads and seems to be making cycling a bit easier. Am I imagining this?

(3) Finally. The Schwalbe tyres recommend a pressure of between 70 & 100 pound per square inch. Is there anywhere where I can but a tyre pesssure gauge that can measure up to 100 ppsi?

I recollect Paul inflating his to 110 ppsi and thinking "How the heck does he do that?"

Happy cycling everyone

(when I used the word "heck" you know what I meant to say....)

Edited by colin
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