Cycling

[only2garners]

..........because of 13 miles of closed Manchester roads, including the Mancunian Way, beautiful weather, 7000 like minded people and the sheer joy of the occassion.

This is the finest organised mass ride in the country, next year do it, if you ride a bike without question do it.

Thank you Manchester

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Paul - I assume you know already but there is a Sky Ride in Preston on the Sunday after next (17th). Not anything like the scale of the Manchester ride but still I believe some closed roads to ride on.

[JC4LAB]

Manchester skyride is 15th August this year I think for anyone wanting a similar/repeat of the recent Mcr ride..Last year it was Castlefield to Mancity.and Back but under the Masncurian way ...About 4000 on it...Do as many loops as you wish..The dream one for me is the London Brighton.BHF ride...28000+ on that one

[david_daft]

It is a beautiful looking machine!

From what you've written this bike will only be used for road riding, your hybrid would be used for touring or knocking about town etc? Roamin's post made me think about this, you should get a double. Why?

The range of useable gears on a double is not that much different from a triple especially as some combinations of front and rear on a triple are so close as to be almost identical. On a triple although in theory you have 30 gears available in practice you probably use 10-12 regularly. With a double you'll use about 10.

On a double you get a better progression through the gears making your riding smoother and better.

The gear change is simpler and smoother.

A double will make you a better, stronger rider provided you ride mainly on the big ring. I'm not sure how to compare the gearing but most people ride a triple on the middle ring moving up and down the rear cassette. With a double if you ride on the small you won't get enough speed, using the big ring, which is a higher gear than the triple middle, increases your speed and quickly improves your strength. I doubt you would spend much time using the big ring on a triple. This approach means you have all of the gears on the small double ring in reserve.

The last point would be you haven't had a triple road bike before so you probably won't be aware of the difference and therefore won't miss it. Initially I missed my granny ring but until writing this now realise I haven't needed it for months. The granny ring is really only used for brutally steep hills and perhaps the comfort of knowing it's there. I have yet to find a hill I can't climb on the double, Winter Hill near Chorley is the steepest I regularly go up without a problem.

I'm not a good climber and haven't tested this on any brutal hills but then unless you're a rider who hunts out big hills to climb why worry? If you do want big hills you'll be good enough to get up anyway?

Some riders don't like doubles because they have to make a "double change" under some circumstances, That is shifting from the big to small ring and changing the rear almost simultaneously. The argument is the drop from large to small is too great and interrupts the rider's rhythm. When I first heard of this I played around with it and what I found is there are few situations where it's really necessary. On relatively flat roads I use the big ring and when I get into hilly areas just stsy on the small.

Get a double, it will be better!

Put a deposit down today on the cube. Got to go to lancaster next week to pick it up. went for the triple in the end. Was never great up a hill, even when younger. Means I can go anywhere, with anybody (and not get off and push )

Any suggestions on pedals? Also, as I'm spending a Grand on the bike, could I also buy the pedals from the same shop and ask them to throw in a pair of shoes for free?

[Paul]

I meant to mention pedals and forgot. You should definetley go "clipless" - which bizarrely means your feet are clipped on to the pedals. These systems are known as "clipless" because they replaced toe clips, hence clipless.

There are two types, SPD (Shimano Pedal Dynamics) and LOOK (the name of the first manufacturer). I'm sure there are many technical differences but I'm not aware of them. For me the big difference is with SPD the cleat is recessed in the shoe and LOOK projects from the bottom. SPD's are much easier to walk in and there is a huge range of shoe styles available - good if your touring as you only need one pair of shoes. I use SPDs.

I think the majority of roadies use LOOK. There must be a reason but I don't know what it is. For me SPDs are preferable because of the ease of walking in them. I have had roadies ask how I manage to "clip in" so quickly!

You can buy single or double sided SPDs - I use double as it means clipping in is quick and it doesn't matter which side of the pedal is uppermost.

When buying shoes many people, including me, buy one size larger. Your feet are locked to the pedal, you may wear extra socks in winter and this tightens the shoe. If the shoe is too tight or because your foot is locked in place you can get circulation problems leading to numb or cold feet. In my experience it is very important to have loose, comfortable fit. If you can't move yor foot around easily inside the shoe or wiggle your toes in my view the shoes are too small.

With flat pedals you subconsciously adjust your foot position to the most comfortable. You can't do this with cleats. After the initial set up on your first few rides take an Allen key and marker pen. When a foot becomes uncomfortable stop, mark the cleat position, make a SMALL adjustment forward or back to the cleat and carry on riding. This way you will quickly find the best position. The discomfort from the wrong position can manifest itself in many ways, pins and needles, numbness, cramp and sore knees all indicate poor position. It only takes a couple of rides to sort out. You may find thd best position is marginally different for each foot.

First few times you ride clipless you will have a "clipless moment." You try to stop, forget your feet are clipped in and immediately fall off! There is no graceful way to do this, just land in a heap with the bike on top of you - skin heals, paintwork doesn't. Find somewhere quiet to practice, preferably with a grass verge! I always unclip the left foot first so falling off is to the left. BTW I haven't fallen off for eight years, it soon becomes natural. Initially ride with pedal adjustment quite slack as this allows easy unclipping, as your confidence grows tighten the adjustment to keep your feet more firmly positioned. I ride with the left slacker than right to help unclipping and stopping.

The two main benefits to clipless are you transfer power through the downstroke while the other foot pulls up to help the downstroke. It is a slightly different pedalling style to flats and you should aim to pedal in a circle rather than up and down. The other big benefit is on hills, the upward pull gives extra power and you don't have to concentrate on keeping your upward foot in contact with the pedal.

TOP TIP - the shoes have a small whole in the sole where the cleat attaches. When it rains wrap your feet in plastic bags over your socks - an amazing amount of water gets in through the hole in wet weather, not in gentle rain though. Also keeps feet toasty warm, if somewhat sweaty, in winter!!

Once you have clipless you won't go back to flats.

Edited June 9, 2012 by Paul

[Paul]

.......and buy the very best bib shorts you can afford. The most important bit of cycling kit. All the other clothing, except possibly a really good water and wind proof, you get in Aldi. Dead cheap.

[only2garners]

.......and buy the very best bib shorts you can afford. The most important bit of cycling kit. All the other clothing, except possibly a really good water and wind proof, you get in Aldi. Dead cheap.

I have heard this mentioned by a few people but I'm not sure I understand why bib shorts are better than ordinary ones - can you explain?

[Paul]

For those who don't know these are shorts with integral sewn in shoulder straps. As such they don't have a waist band

Bib Shorts

The benefits are generally said to be:

• They are specifically made to fit correctly when sat on the bike. It's true for all bikes but especially so for road bikes. The shorts follow the body contour from shoulder to just above the knee
• The lack of a waist band means this can't dig into your waist nor will shorts travel downwards dropping below the waist and cutting in more
• Bib shorts keep "everything" in place for men. Cough.
• They don't ride up into the crotch if you have the correct size
• Comfort is on a different level from standard shorts

If you decide to try some do try them on and lean in to your usual riding position as they are designed to fit when on a bike not when standing up! I've only ever had Assos which are ferociously expensive but in my experience the size charts are very accurate and should be used. First time I bought the size I thought was correct, it wasn't and I had to sell the original pair and buy a smaller size. If you look at Assos the price will make you sweat, but then my previous pair lasted 5 years.

BTW be aware when lycra wears out it goes almost transparent very quickly - so a lady cyclist in my club informed me from behind!!!

Edited June 9, 2012 by Paul

[ancient]

My mode of transport is horseback,i spend many hours a week riding roads, tracks and byeways meeting many cyclists.I would just ask one thing of cyclists if you are about to overtake a horse/rider, please please announce your intention,many modern cycles dont have bells but a simple Cyclist Passing Please with the voice will suffice, very often the first a horse or rider hears of a cyclist is a swish of tyres which may startle some horses triggering the natural instinct to kick out with a hindleg, be safe be seen and be safe be heard many thanks

[Paul]

"cycle behind" is my shout for both two legs and four, though it's very rare for me to be off road. Followed by "thank you."

[Audax]

My mode of transport is horseback,i spend many hours a week riding roads, tracks and byeways meeting many cyclists.I would just ask one thing of cyclists if you are about to overtake a horse/rider, please please announce your intention,many modern cycles dont have bells but a simple Cyclist Passing Please with the voice will suffice, very often the first a horse or rider hears of a cyclist is a swish of tyres which may startle some horses triggering the natural instinct to kick out with a hindleg, be safe be seen and be safe be heard many thanks

Good post.

Yes, I have ridden trails where there are signs urging cyclists to alert horses and their riders that cyclists are around so as not to startle them, maybe they have these signs in your area. I do have a nice loud long ringer vs. a pinger and have used bells for years. So I hear you, every once in a while I will go through a wilderness area at night and sometimes ring the bell to let any wildlife I'm coming through. Bells may not be used as in the past but for me, they are still a necessity though for a lot of modern road cyclists, they don't want many extras on their handlebars.

[Audax]

I always thought one wanted to warn a horse and rider of their presence too because I thought there might be a risk a horse might be startled and throw the rider off. However, if this is not so, good. I'll just know to be careful that a horse could give a hind leg kick.

[Roaming Rover]

Paul gives good advice, especially with the shorts. I followed a lot of his advice a few years back around shorts and got some assos, not cheap but still going strong.

Took me a while to get back on hills with a compact after a triple but I'm a much stronger cyclist because of it.

Clipless shoes are a must if you are doing any distance or hills, they make such a difference!

But saying all this the only thing which will make you a good rider is to get on the bike!!!

Also 100% agree with horse riders, annoys me when cyclists complain about cars then don't listen to their own advice when it comes to horses and walkers....

[ancient]

I always thought one wanted to warn a horse and rider of their presence too because I thought there might be a risk a horse might be startled and throw the rider off. However, if this is not so, good. I'll just know to be careful that a horse could give a hind leg kick.

As you say the rider may be thrown,my concern would be to make cyclist aware of the horses reactions,originally the horse was a prey animal whose instincts were of survival, these

are still present in todays domesticated horses all horses have a blind spot directly behind them and if the first they hear is a swish of tyres, without sight to aid their judgement this defence instict may kick in.wishing you many happy safe hours cycling

[LDRover]

Just bought a cheap mountain bike from Halfords for 80 quid and did a quick 3 mile circuit home to Lower Darwen cuminating in a lung buster up Stopes Brow. Nearly chucked up but bloody loved it.

Back on a decent ride on weds/thurs (weather permitting) up round pleasington past clog and butlers and back down livesey branch. Should be fun.

[david_daft]

Paul, am picking up the Cube on Saturday. A thousand for the bike, plus pedals.

Is it acceptable to ask them to throw the shoes in for nowt? And maybe a mile /speedometer?

[Paul]

Well I would!!

Shoes are probably pushing it as that will £35-50 but certainly a computer. I'd get one with a cadence reading which is really useful. I have a Sigma 1609 which I find very adequate. Probably £20.

[Roaming Rover]

Agree, a lot of bike shops now have a points system and you get some many points depending what bike you get and cost. You can then exchanmge points for helmet, shoes, clothes etc. SO if they don;t have that system it is well worh asking.

Oh if anyone wants a bit of challenge on the bike, I'm doing Lands End to John O'Groats in September if you want to join me

[Audax]

Agree, a lot of bike shops now have a points system and you get some many points depending what bike you get and cost. You can then exchanmge points for helmet, shoes, clothes etc. SO if they don;t have that system it is well worh asking.

Oh if anyone wants a bit of challenge on the bike, I'm doing Lands End to John O'Groats in September if you want to join me

LEJO, good luck on that! How many days does one set aside to make that ride if I may ask?

Edited June 15, 2012 by Audax

[Audax]

I have a Raleigh Super Tourer from about 1982, Reynolds tubing, I tighten the left crank arm screw too tight and the screw broke on the left side of the Stronglight crank. It is a nice light bike. I wonder if this screw will have "French measurements" or if other screws would work. Because I have about 3 bikes, I've never really worked on this too much but should fix it.

[Audax]

About 3 weeks ago, I took a spill on my bike, I was wearing my helmet but since my helmet was old, I bought a new one in light of this incident and am basically carrying it with me all the time as before when I'd just leave it hanging on the bike. I hit the pavement on my cheek, face cheek that is, the upper cheek did get swollen, I'd say about the size of an egg and it did not really hurt but the blood did pool around my eye under the skin to make a black eye and it looked like someone took a black felt pen and made a black crescent basically under the left eye, I wasn't sure if it was going to go away but it did. Also, I noted when I ate at the Indian restaurant and got take-out with the Tumeric spice they use in their food, it seemed to get better by quite a bit. Just interesting, Tumeric they say is good for that.

So, the bottom-line is yes, keep your helmet on, if I had struck my upper skull without the helmet, I don't want to think about it. But beyond this, accident my fault, thank goodness, I was not out in traffic when this happened, carried something on the bike and it got caught in the front wheel and up over the handlebars I went! I'm overly cautious in most ways when I ride the bike except in carrying things. Now I will be with that as well. Carrying an extra cloth bag and cargo net to not leave this up to chance. Of course, I respect the individual's own choice to determine if they want to wear a helmet.

Apologies for the prosaic story here, had to say this.

Edited June 15, 2012 by Audax

[david_daft]

Paul, picked the Cube up today, it's a thing of great beauty. Bought some pedals for £50 and they chucked a pair of shoes in, worth £65, for free. Happy days.

Not been out on it yet, just been practicing getting my feet in and out of the clips.

Thanks for the help

[Paul]

You're welcome. Enjoy

[david_daft]

Went out on the Cube today, can't even begin to tell you how impressed I was with it,

it really is a flying machine. I think I might be in love

[colin]

Audax,

Hope you are OK. Are you?

Let us know

Colin

[Audax]

Colin: Thanks, it wasn't much of a tumble. Carelessness. I have a road bike. Some mountain bikers take pride in the injuries they get, it was the old over the handlebars fall. Just lucky I was near home and no traffic was around. And as I said, since then, I'm always making sure everything is tied down tight on my rack.

I have had about 3 incidences in my life, 3 semi-accidents, 2 of them were on ice and none-of-them really serious but it goes to show, I myself at least, needs to remember to be careful. I've met people who have had serious cycling accidents so I just need to remember to stay out of these kinds of situations.

Edited June 18, 2012 by Audax